I spun a few thousand yards of lace weight warp, some worsted, and more woolen. Every blinking bobbin that will fit on my bobbin rack is full. Thus, there is a bin of 4" bobbins in process by the lathe.
Why would I turn bobbins, when I can buy them for cheap? Because wood turning is like spinning, one must routinely practice, to stay proficient. My turning bobbins is like a musician doing their scales.
And yes, about a third of the bobbins in process are of green olive wood. Why not? Of the 60 or so that I turned from green olive wood, very few have cracked or warped.
Why would I turn bobbins, when I can buy them for cheap? Because wood turning is like spinning, one must routinely practice, to stay proficient. My turning bobbins is like a musician doing their scales.
And yes, about a third of the bobbins in process are of green olive wood. Why not? Of the 60 or so that I turned from green olive wood, very few have cracked or warped.
PVOH sizing
(More likely to be needed with
modern mill spun, than with
well spun, hand spun.)
I did loom trials with mill spun - and that convinced me to investigate sizing. All of this put me in a dither for a long time. For various reasons, I do not think the Greeks and Romans used sizing. My warp singles are stronger and more durable than any of the mill spun 5,600 ypp, 2-ply wool warp that I bought for loom trials. I should have just done the loom trials with hand spun. If you are a mill, less twist and sizing is cheaper. For a hand spinner, a little more twist is less bother.
No comments:
Post a Comment