Monday, August 18, 2014

Overview of Spinning at the Spin Count


  1. Select the desired grist and nature of the single.
  2. Select a wool with a spin count that is the desired grist, and which has a nature that will produce the desired single.
  3. Use differential rotation speed to set the flyer/bobbin assembly to insert the correct twist for that grist.
  4. Prepare the wool as combed top, dressed onto a distaff. Combing with 5 pitch combs is how they did it for years and years, and it works.
  5. Use a high bobbin/flyer rpm -- 2000 is good, 3,000 is better. Accelerator wheels work.
  6. The hands will be a good distance apart and a good distance from the orifice.  Hand motions are very small, and limited to advancing wool into the drafting triangle and bringing stray staples to the area when the single is forming.
  7. Yarn is wound off as when the effective circumference of the bobbin (and hence the inserted twist) changes. If you are spinning 60s, you can likely get 500 yards (8 grams) on a 3.5" bobbin before the twist changes more than 10%, and that is close enough for hand spinning.
The key to the whole process is that one needs to use DRS to insert the correct amount of twist for the takeup. Then, one needs to use a fiber with a spin count appropriate to the grist being inserted.   These two factors must work together.

Modern spinners find spinning these grists (20,000 ypp - 45,000 ypp, 140 to 200 wpi) difficult. This is because they either use spinning wheels with too much take-up or spindles which are slow. Then, modern spinners try to make the spinning easier by using the finest possible fibers.  In fact, the use of finer fibers changes the dynamics of the twisting process, and increases the requirements for drafting.  This is not noticed because these systems already require significant drafting effort.  In contrast, I set up my system to require minimal drafting effort.

I can spin 22,400 ypp single from Romney faster and easier than I can from Merino, and much, much easier than I can from that mix of silk, alpaca, and Merino that I was spinning over the weekend. All those fine fibers disrupt the system's ability to self-assemble the single. 

There is 60 count long wool on the distaff right now and I have been spinning it into 22,400 ypp singles. Spinning it at 30,000 ypp/60 count is just a matter of changing the flyer whorl, and Bingo, I am spinning at the spin count and everything is copesthetic.  The 22,400 ypp requires some drafting, The single at the wool's spin count just sort of self assembles with less attention. This is about small increments of faster and easier.

Get it all correct, and one can spin worsted grists of 20,000 ypp - 45,000 ypp at 350 to 200 yards per hour.  And the uniformity will be unbelievable in the context of modern hand spun.  A rather small investment in learning the physics of spinning brings huge rewards in easier spinning.  This has been my refrain for several years now.  The book that gets the physics of spinning correct is Alden Amos's, Big Book of Hand Spinning. Read it.  I know of two famous spinners that recommend it and still make mistakes about the content.  Learn it.  cf  Alden's analysis of spinning garment weight singles on the great wheel.  Flyer/bobbin systems are much easier, and much faster.

One can make much faster spindles that work very well for this technology, but I do not see many of them around.  

I have seen the larger spinning community deny that this is possible, and I see waves of anger.  No adult should ever get angry over a bobbin of lace  yarn.  A bobbin of lace is nothing, it a few grams of fiber and a couple hours of spinning. However, if you have a quarter of a million yards of 22,000 ypp singles, then you can weave a bolt of shirting. In the middle ages,  hundreds of bolts of shirting were being traded around Europe. That means that hand spinners were spinning tens of millions of yards of 22,000 ypp singles every year.  It was an industry that made families rich, and cities powerful.  And, that was in addition to what was being spun for other weaving.   That kind of money and power is something to get excited about.



 

 

2 comments:

Russian Fibers said...

> Modern spinners find spinning these grists (20,000 ypp - 45,000 ypp, 140 to 200 wpi) difficult. This is because they either use spinning wheels with too much take-up or spindles which are slow

I'm one of modern spinners. Did not have difficulty spinning that kind of yarn. It was and is my default yarn. when it comes to it there is plenty spinner in Russia who are just like me. Maybe you should come visit to see for yourself. Orenburg region for example would be one of the places. If you are after weavers and so on, Russian north would be your target.

> Get it all correct, and one can spin worsted grists of 20,000 ypp - 45,000 ypp at 350 to 200 yards per hour. And the uniformity will be unbelievable in the context of modern hand spun.

Did not quite get what is so special about 200 yards per hour. Seems pretty normal to me. And same regarding uniform yarn. I though it's the way it should be. otherwise customer does not buy an item... if it's uneven yarn.
200m per hour as my granny would say and what to spin. Seems pretty normal on a slow side. 400m is closer to it for what you describe as lace weight yarns.

It's great you support local small businesses like Alden. As from a pro perspective what is the point to get into it and so on. Just hire a pro if you want yourself a sweater or something. Will be cheaper in the end compared all the tools and time spent. If you are just in need of some garments.

Aaron said...

Orenburg fiber is much finer than wool and thus has a much higher spin count, so you should be able to spin it at ~65,000 yards per pound at a good pace.

I no longer talk about "lace weight". Often singles of 5,600 ypp are referred to as "lace weight" and I can spin worsted 5,600 ypp singles at between 600 and 700 yards per hour. There is a boot box of such worsted singles sitting ready to get plied into 5-ply sport weight yarn.

I spin 30,000 ypp (60 meters/gram) worsted single at over 200 yards (180 meters) per hour, and that includes time to wind off onto storage bobbins.

I spin 44,500 ypp (88 meters/gram) worsted singles at ~180 yards (160 m) per hour, again time includes wind off.

I like worsted, but I can spin woolen at about the same rate.

I like old English units because it is easy to convert from pounds of fiber to hanks of single, and to work out grist and twist calculations.

Much of what I do is look for warm, durable textile constructions that are not being made any more. So, for example, I have made 10-ply sock yarns, from Shetland, and Suffolk wool, in various plied and cabled constructions, to see how they performed. Why? Because 17 tpi was the twist for a traditional hosiery single, and that implies a 40s grist. then 10-(plys/strands) makes the right grist for a finished sock yarn.

I do not see ANYONE spinning the kind of yarns that I spin, and I have looked.

I do not see ANYONE knitting 5-ply gansey yarn on the 1.65 mm needles that I use. I knit because I like this fabric. I spin to make the yarn that makes the fabrics that I like.

Alden is retired. I wish that I had started spinning 20 years sooner so that I could have had more time with those magical tools that he made.